Si hay una flor con tradición es el azahar, ya sea en flor, absoluto, o aceite esencial, la cuestión es que en culturas tan diferentes como la árabe, china, y europea su significado simbólico es coincidente. Los árabes lo usan como adorno que da buena suerte a las novias, para los chinos simbolizaba pureza, e inocencia, fidelidad y amor eterno, sin embargo, en Europa, cuando llegó el azahar allá por la edad media, se adoptaron ambas tradiciones culturales: las novias lo llevaban en una diadema, que simboliza la castidad de la novia, además de dar buena suerte, garantizar la fecundidad, y es símbolo también de amor eterno.
A qué nos referimos cuando hablamos de azahar en perfumería?, el origen
etimológico de la palabra azzahár es árabe, el vocablo fue hispanizado, la palabra en origen era az-zahar, cuyo significado es flores. En la actualidad azahar es el nombre genérico para designar las flores blancas: limonero, cidra, y naranjo, esta última la más apreciada de todas, y es a ella a la que me referiré de aquí en adelante. De sus flores se obtienen varios componente según su tipo de extracción, esto nos puede llevar a confusión:
Neroli: es un aceite esencial, obtenido por destilación del Citrus aurantium subsp. Amara o Bigaradia. Es el más caro de todos los productos que se obtienen de este árbol, también el más buscado en estado puro, ya que es realmente complicado de obtener. Tiene cierto poder hipnótico, su aroma es dulce pero picante. El nombre proviene de la princesa de Nerola Marie Anna Orsini, que en el siglo XVII lo puso de moda en Italia, al perfumar sus guantes con este aceite esencial. Los mayores productores son Túnez y Marruecos, la recogida de la flores es a mano, durante los meses de abril y mayo.
- Agua de azahar: es el hidrolato que queda cuando se decanta el nerolí después del proceso de destilado, y si es lo que se usa en pastelería, un ejemplo el roscón de reyes. Tiene tradicionalmente un uso terapéutico, utilizada en infusiones, o como tónico, y por supuesto en aromaterapia, debido a sus propiedades sedantes van bien para el insomnio, es antidiarreico, sirve para los dolores menstruales, molestias de estómago… su aroma es más dulce que el del neroli.
- Absoluto de azahar: lo que cambia aquí es la forma de extracción, se obtiene con disolventes, así sus componentes se degradan menos en el proceso de extracción, pero es complicado que no presente tintes animalísticos marcados.
Leyendas sobre azhar:
Cuenta la leyenda… sobre el azahar que tan sólo los califas podían poseer un naranjo, este árbol había sido introducido allá por el siglo X en la península ibérica, el disfrute de su fragancia era privilegio de reyes. En una visita diplomática un embajador francés, codició como no podía ser de otra manera, sus fragantes flores de exquisita belleza, intentó sin éxito que el jardinero real traicionara a su rey para que le vendiera un esqueje.
La joven hija del jardinero, vió la oportunidad de obtener una dote para casarse, y si accedió a la venta del esqueje, con el dinero podría casarse… Al llegar el día de su boda, adornó su cabeza con una corona hecha de flores de azahar, como muestra de gratitud, desde entonces las flores de azahar son símbolo de felicidad y suerte.
Los nuevos tiempos hicieron caer en desuso esta tradición pero en la moda todo vuelve, y ahora este complemento ha vuelto con fuerzas renovadas.
Maite Barroso
Nota olfativa en perfumeria y su posición en la pirámide:
armonizan las composiciones haciendo que entre las notas de salida y medias haya una transición. Combina bien con todos los cítricos, con el jazmín, lavanda, manzanilla, geranio, benjuí, salvia, rosa, ylang-ylang. Con todos ellos comparte componentes, y puede intensificar por tanto, alguna de sus facetas.Puede parecer un papel poco relevante, pero si tenemos en cuenta que gran parte de las compras de perfumes se realizan por las notas de salida entenderemos su importancia.Componentes en el aceite de neroli:
Podemos encontrar los siguientes componentes:
- Nerol: es su componente distintivo, en realidad huele a una de las facetas de la rosa, dulce pero mucho más fresca.
- Limoneno: presente en la cáscara de los cítricos y fácil de identificar le otorga frescor al aceite de neroli, también puede encontrarse en otros aceites esenciales procedentes por ejemplo del pino… las próxima vez que huelas a pino intenta encontrar la nota de limoneno, es bastante fácil de distinguir.
- Linalol: más frescor para el neroli, es la nota mentolada pero floral, también está presente en la rosa, y en el jazmín, se entiende que pueda intensificar facetas de estás flores matizando y destacando sus notas.
- Metil antranilato: su fragancia es floral, y frutal.
Algunos perfumes con Azahar
Narciso Rodríguez for Her
Familia olfativa Floral, creado por Francis Kurkdjian y Cristine Nagel. Una flor de naranjo insinuada, junto a un almizcle blanco, un tema perfecto para el verano, de una sencillez engañosa, para disfrutar sosegadamente. Ganadora de dos importantes premios.
- Notas de salida: Osmanthus, bergamota y flor de naranjo.
- Notas medias: almizcle y ámbar.
- Notas de sillaje: Vetiver, vainilla y pachulí.
Neroli Portofino Tom Ford
De la familia olfativa hespérides aromática para hombres. Creada por el nez
Rodrigo Flores-Roux. Es un luminoso perfume, que aunque nos retrotrae a ese momento infantil del perfumado con agua de colonia de después del baño, sin embargo, no nada más lejos de ser infantil. Es elegante, limpio, y sofisticado.
- Las notas de salida: Bergamota, limón, mandarina, mirto, romero, y naranja amarga.
- Las notas de corazón: Neroli, flor de naranjo africano, azahar chino, y jazmín.
- Las notas de fondo: ámbar, angélica, ambreta.
Conclusión
Interesante contenido, muy recomendable, gracias por la aportación! 🙂
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